FX Luminaire : The Lighting Professional's Choice
 
Learning Center
 
 
 
Documenting the site conditions is the first critical step in developing a comprehensive lighting plan set the will reflect the goals and expectations of your clients. Using a 35mm camera to shoot a quick roll of all important features as described below will help you recall detail when sitting down to the drawing board.
 
 
WHAT TO DOCUMENT
 
 

All existing 120v power outlets to help determine where you can tie into the house current. The plug on the left is unusable because it is locked in by concrete. The plug on the right, which has access to the dirt, is what we need.

Large specimen plant material - pay special attention to the color and density as it will determine which wattage lamp will be required for uplighting. This tree has white bark and reflective leaves so it will require much less wattage to make it a focal point (use the RS-20 on it). The tree below is very dense and dark so it will not reflect much light. Make notes of these observations and take lots of pictures.
For down lighting (moonlighting) look for natural openings in the branch structure that will allow the TrellisSolare® to have a clean shot at the areas to be illuminated. The opening where you can see the trunk up high in this tree is where you'll want to mount your TrellisSolare®.
Grade changes or safety hazards that will need to be illuminated. Is there a tree, eave or arbor close by to down light from or will the step have to be covered with a path light or wall light? The trees hanging over this RR-tie stairway are perfect for down lighting with the TS-20, VL-20 or LS-18. If lit from the arbor, photograph the wood detail to assist in designing a clean mount and wire concealment.
Off site lighting opportunities such as canyons, large trees or boulders. Most times these features can be illuminated to make the yard seem much larger than it is. On the left are trees outside the fence line - the right has a very light colored bolder outcropping - both are good candidates for off site lighting. FYI: An RS-35-V can project light out 100'+ in a dark area.
  • Security concerns - are there natural shadow areas created by off site street lighting? Does the property backup to a dark public access area?
  • Entry monuments or address signs. This can be done with soft low level light that provides the invited guests to find their way.
  • Unique artwork or sculptural elements that can be graze lit for drama.
  • Shoot a 36 exposure roll and get it quick printed - the 10 bucks you spend will come back to you when trying to remember project specifics two week later when you finally design the plan.
 
 
 
 
OTHER PREDESIGN ISSUES
 
   
  • Check for Restrictions: Is there special CC&R (restrictions) at either the city or neighborhood level that will limit your design goals?
  • Neighbors: Is there a crazy neighbor that is allergic to light? Always make sure your design is sensitive to light trespass.
  • It's Your Job: Who is going to have design input on the lighting plan? Uncle Pete the electrician or the hyperactive interior decorator? Try to flush out any opinion influencers early.
  • Budget: The single most important question that never gets discussed.
  • Switching controls - the second most important question.
  • Installer: Who will install the lighting components? Make sure there is going to be competent labor to bring your work of art to life. If your dealing with a project owner that wants his teenage grudge-son to install tree lights and wall lights . . . look out!
  • Amps: Check to see if there is indeed enough amperage capacity on the 120v plugs you plan to use. Quick and dirty way to check: plug in a 1000w hair dryer while the normal interior lights are on . . . if the circuit breaker doesn't trip in ten minutes you're good for about 1000w of transformers. Better method: get an electrical to use a amp flow meter to determine the exact normal consumption on that circuit.
  • Existing Equipment: Existing cable and sleeves are always a gray area. We recommend that your design depends on the minimum existing equipment since it is impossible to verify all sleeve size and quality (yes, I see the end of the sleeve but can I actually pull the necessary cables through it?), cable size and quality (existing splices are a potential nightmare) and transformers of the plastic variety (they'll blowup sooner or later). Simply put: design for the worst case then as the project is installed hope that those existing conditions will eliminate some of the work. This minimizes the potential for change orders on the debit side. Most contractors will not warranty work they had not installed themselves.